It’s the last day of our trip to Mexico. We sailed from La Cruz to Mazatlán, then spent seven nights in Hotel Raices de Mar. This post is a list of 10 things I’ve learned on the trip. Not the only things, but the things that come to mind as I sit with my partner in crime at the Sky Bar at the Observatorio. High upon one of the hills in Mazatlán, drinking Aperol Spritz in the sun, watching Turkey Vultures soar above us on the thermals.
1. Sailing is the best way to travel
Sailing for the first 7-days gave us the oportunity to spend time on the water and experience a natural side of Mexico that we’d otherwise have stuggled to experience in such a immersive way. From seeing whales on day 1 to walking amongst [blue-footed boobies] on subsequent days whilst anchored on the beautiful Isla Isabel.
Upon reaching Mazatlan we had a couple of rent-free nights anchored in the less posh marina near the old town. We were able to use the boat to take trips to the mainland and climb to the lighthouse, or take the tender across to Isla de las Piedras for food and seemingly controversial Banda Music.
While full-time cruising defintely requires work - there’s an incredible amount of value in the experiences it affords.
2. Mexico is a wonderful country to visit
We’ve really enjoyed our time in Mexico and the end is coming too soon for us but we’d love to come back and explore more. The food, the culture, the history, the nature, the food, and the people are all unmissable.
3. Chilaquiles are the best breakfast
Did I mention the food? I love Mexican food in the UK so there wasn’t a suprise as such in terms of flavours but the highlight discovery for me was Chilaquiles Rojo. Not the healthiest of breakfasts but certainly the tastiest in my opinion. The mix of the crunch in the fried tortilla chips, soaked in a salsa that softens them to a delightful texture is just perfect. The ones I had here in Mazatlan had a very gentle spicy warmth to them which was just perfect.
I’ll defiitely be trying some recipes for these at home, as well as trying to pickle some red onions which are served on top.
4. Courtyards covered in plants are perfect for cities, and can be absolutely stunning
A number of restaurants and art shops which we visited across the old town in Mazatlán, had small courtyards that had been covered in plants and greenery, often with one or more tall trees providing shade. Each was different in style, from well-maintained painted walls with smooth plaster, to a more rustic style with patchy, exposed, brickwork and deteriorating paintwork. All felt special though, little oases of peace in an (occasionally) noisey area.
5. There are a lot of Gringos in Mazatlán for the winter
My there are a lot of retired Americans and Canadians in Mazatlán over the winter and early Spring. It makes total sense, better weather, lower cost of living, English spoken in many/most places. Frankly it sounds like a great idea if it wasn’t for the distance from home. It does mean though, that some areas cater for North American tastes more than I’d like ideally. I want to experience the culture, and that was something we found more on Isla de las Piedras with Mexican owned beach cafe’s, many less Gringos amongst the Mexican families having fun, and the Banda musicians competing for aural capacity amongst the different restaurant patrons.
One thing to note - before I come back I want to be speaking nearly fluent Spanish!
6. Mexicans appear to love life, laughter and loud music
It’s been an absolute joy to see Mexican’s laughing and talking everywhere we go. The first sign of this for us was the fisherman we saw rafting up together to process their catch, playing music and with their laughter floating across the anchorage. More regularly in restaraunts and cafe’s in Mazatlán’s old town at all times but particularly in the evenings over food.
That sense of fun extends to the houses in the old town where it seems that the only bylaw is that no two houses can be painted the same bright colour. So refresihng in the bright sunshine and makes our UK housing estates look incredibly dull.
In the square where our hotel is, there are different bands each evening, one in almost every hotel/bar/restaraunt. All local musicians playing as loud as they can get possibly away with.
One other source of noise and colour is the taxis. The Pulmonia and taxi drivers like to entertain their customers with mobile discos that can be heard from quite the distance.
7. Pelicans are better than seagulls
Pelican’s have been a constant prescence on this coast, seemingly outnumbering the seagulls. Now the seagulls here aren’t the brutes we get in the UK, they’re very chill by comparison, but I’ve loved seeing the pelicans. These are birds I’ve mostly assumed were relatively static, but they have surprised me by flying both low across the water and also flying high in the air gaining height in the thermals. They fly in V-formations as well which is fascinating to watch. They’re such a distinctive sight and I’ve become very attached to them even in the short time we’ve been here. I’ll miss them when we go home.
8. Anchorages are better than marinas
This one is no suprise. Being at anchor in such a wild a location as Isla Isabel was amazing. Self-sufficent generation of power and fresh water, good provisioning plus the purchase of fish from local fisherman gives such a sense of freedom. The quiet anchorage and being surrounded by nature was just a blessing.
I’ve nothing against marinas, it’s nice to walk of your boat and have access to shops but it’s an occasioal neccessity, not a choice to be made lightly - in my opinion.
9. Being warm in March is a welcome relief after a cold dark UK winter
Oh my, coming to Mexico at this time of the year has been magical. The perfect temperature with little or no humidity that arrives later in the year along with hotter temperatures.
It’s such a contrast from the dark, cold winter we’ve just gone through in the UK. It seems that there is sun back home now and the temperature was over 20C yesterday, but it’s now 2C at night. That’s not a patch on the 25-29C day temperature and 14-15C night temperature here.
I can definitely see why folk who can winter here, do!
10. I could watch birds soaring on thermals all day
Isla Isabel was a breeding heaven for birds - blue-footed boobies, magnificent frigatebirds, red-billed tropicbirds, pelicans and I’m sure others. Watching them fly effortlessly on the thermals and uplift from the cliff faces was fascinating - if nerve wracking, no-one want’s a poop in the eye no matter what coloured feet they have!
As we moved North to Mazatlan we traded the boobies for turkey vultures and sitting here at the Observatorio, a couple of hundred meters high, we can see them rise to many hundreds of meters, barely moving a wing.
It’s just endlessly fascinating to see them move through their domain with such elegance.